The RTV silicone molds shown in the picture at left were created using Amazing Mold Putty with an original polymer clay face sculpt and with vintage lace.

Pulls from the mold were formed as shown on the previous page. These faces were then cured at 275 degrees F. in a large capacity convection toaster oven.

Pieces of black clay were rolled through a pasta machine at a medium setting. The clay was pressed onto the molds--no release agent is ever needed with silicone molds. Then Pearl-Ex mica powders were applied to the raised areas of the design using a careful fingertip. Pieces were cut and draped around the faces to form hats.

Some of the faces were dressed in red or purple hats. The red clay was treated just as the black clay was and Pearl-Ex powder was applied. The lovely purple geometric pattern on the hat in the center was achieved by applying an acrylic foil to the black clay base before cutting and baking. This foil is similar in use and application to Jones Tones foils, but is designed for use with decorated finger nails! Once again, products meant for other purposes often find wonderful homes in the studios of polymer clay artists. It comes in MANY wonderful patterns and colors, which fade somewhat during baking but are still a lot of fun. Each five foot roll costs a mere dollar at dollarnailart.com and they also carry many other items of interest to polymer clay artists.

In order to make the texture molds, two pieces of vintage lace that had interesting textural areas and a woven reed basket were used with small amounts of Amazing Mold Putty.

A ball of the mixed putty was quickly placed on the lace and both pressed in and flattened by pushing down with an acrylic sheet. A ceramic tile could also be used to flatten the putty ball onto the lace.

Enough pressure was applied to form the putty into a thin sheet that will be carefully peeled away from the lace after 20-40 minutes of set-up time.

Because the bottom of the basket was not as flat as the lace, the putty was pushed into place by hand and allowed to set up.

The rose mold was cast using the same technique as making the face mold.

These useful texture mold sheets can be used to impress clay, and are thin enough to be run through a pasta machine with clay if desired.

Clay can also be pushed into place using finger pressure or an acrylic rod roller.

For visual display purposes, the picture at left shows the texture molds on top of the clay--but in real life use, press the clay into the mold. Three red hat ladies are shown here in the baking pan, awaiting their turn in the oven. Also included is a freestanding oven thermometer, which is Very Important for making sure correct temps are maintained during the oven curing process.

Here you can see how the purple foil was much more vivid prior to baking. However, I still like the way it all turned out in the end!

Ceramic tiles line the bottom of the baking pan to create a more even distribution of heat. To further protect the backs of the pieces, they are baked on a piece of card stock too. A small fluff of Fiber-fil polyester batting is stuffed into the crown of the hat on the left to keep it propped up during baking. Neither the batting or the paper will burn at temps between 275-300 degrees F.

 
The baked polymer clay is now ready for a little shading and a little strategically placed color. I use any good acrylic artists' quality paint. Daler-Rowney, Liquitex, Winsor-Newton and Plaid FolkArt Metallics are my favorite brands and are compatible with polymer clay over the long term.

I thin the paints with Rust-Oleum Varathane Interior Water based polyurethane instead of water.I have tested it over many years for durability and chemical compatibility with clay.

After the stain has dried completely, a gold and Varathane mix is applied to the upper eyelids, much like eye shadow is done on human faces. In fact, much of the face painting is very similar in placement and coloration to make-up application. A brush is lightly loaded with a mix of red and Varathane, and then most is wiped back off onto the pallette or the t-shirt so that a "dry brush"effect can be achieved. Very small amounts are delicately applied to the cheek and chin areas and then smudged and any excess wiped away using a finger. If you get too much on, wipe it all off, using a wet paintbrush to moisten the area if needed. Color can be built up with multiple applications if desired. Paint applications that you don't like can be completely removed quite easily in the first day before the paints completely cure; just scrub the piece gently with a washcloth and a small amount of soapy water. It is very helpful to have a second small clean dry paintbrush to pick up and remove small areas of paint that get misplaced or go outside the chosen area.

 

A mix of white and Varathane is applied to the eyeballs using the small liner brush. (This is usually right about the point my children tell me they look "creepy"). Allow to dry completely before going any further. Then use the liner brush and a mix of black and Varathane to put in a pupil on the eye ball. You may use color to make an iris and then a smaller dot of black if desired, but the colored iris can get visually lost in very small faces. Be careful about the placement of the pupils.

Lipstick comes in thousands of shades of red and pink and coral and orange--mix the shade and tint you like using red, Varathane, and tiny amounts of black, white, or yellow--even a bit of purple can be very effective!Apply this with the larger brush and place it carefully on the upper and lower lips. Leaving a blank space between them suggests teeth without actually having to make them. The black and Varathane mix is also used for eyeliner on the upper lid, and the lower too if a "vamp" look is desired. Beauty spots can also be added, usually on the cheekbone or chin/lip area to and limited to one side. When dry, more paint for colorful eye shadows can be applied.